SEAHAZE Limestone doesn't react to salt because it is calcium carbonate and doesn't react to salt.
Value of Utilizing Pedestal Systems in Hardscape Paver Installations and Renovations
Considerations for cleaning natural stone on patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways * Regular, basic maintenance type cleaningUse any non-caustic degreasing agent (mild dish or hand soap) mixed in warm water.Deep cleaning, minor restoration (mild etch) type cleaningDilute muriatic acid 10 parts water to 1-part store-bought muriatic acidWet entire stone surfacePour dilute mix and move it around with a sponge mop – consider doing in 20 square foot over lapping sections. Don’t let it sit in one place without moving and agitating it. Acid will neutralize after 10-15 seconds.Finish with a rinsing the surface with clean water Sealing the stone ** Before proceeding with sealing, if you applied new grout, you need to wait at least 2 weeks for the outgassing of the grout to complete. If you only did stone cleaning, seal after the stone is thoroughly dry, typically a day or two. * This does not apply to high polished marble – contact us[...]
Mold on hardscaping can be avoided with simple techniques! Hardscaping can be relatively maintenance-free. However, issues may arise if your patio or pool deck is not properly maintained or the initial installation isn’t correct. The first topic in the “Battling Mother Nature” series addresses how to avoid having a persistent mold and/or algae issue on any type of hardscape installation. The problem is often thought to be not enough sunlight in that area (particularly in the case of mold and mildew). Of course, it may help to have plenty of sunlight to mitigate the mold growth on the hardscaping. However, the problem is not the surface. It lies underneath. The problem is almost always about the substrate in paver, tile and other types of exterior or interior environments. The unfortunate appearance of mold and/or algae can readily be avoided with proper installation vs the age-old excuse of insufficient sunlight or other natural causes. The Problem and Solutions So,[...]
Pedestal systems have been used for decades now, most familiarly for lightweight rooftop applications such as installing a patio utilizing the existing roof substrate. Additionally, they are commonly used in computer rooms where access to electrical and telecommunication cables beneath the floor is necessary. A pedestal system lifts the paver up above the substrate Here’s how they work with paver or paver tile projects. Basically, a pedestal, typically made of plastic, raises up the four corners of a paver off the ground with small spacers in each corner. This leaves a small spacer (or tiny little gaps) on each side of the paver or tile, allowing the floor to breathe or, in the outdoors, for drainage and access. Other benefits, discussed in detail below, are time savings for installation, accessibility for both future changes/retrofitting, and MEP (Mechanical, Electrical, and Plumbing). Limitations of pedestal systems It is recommended that you have a flat plane (not necessarily[...]
Natural stone for residential or commercial vehicle specification One of our prospective clients asked us about the ability to use natural stone pavers ie: travertine, limestone, sandstone or marble for re-designing a commercial and pedestrian plaza area where commercial trucks and cars will be driving on the plaza. They also wanted to know if we could produce the pavers in 2 ¼” thickness, as well. The plaza carries both commercial vehicles and cars. Along the plaza are pedestrian walkways. Yes, we can produce pavers at 2 1/4″ thick as well as 3″ or any thickness desired. As far as the concern re: the ability to handle truck traffic, the larger issue is the surface dimension of the pavers (ie: not necessarily the thickness of the pavers) as a fulcrum point or large void underneath the center of any paver can easily result in failure. Consequently, a 4″x4″ paver would be highly unlikely to ever snap or fail, whereas, a large format paver[...]
Caramel Travertine - warm creamy beige color.
10 Reasons why you may want to select Natural Stone Pavers.
#1 REAL natural stone is actually less expensive than faux-stone concrete look-alikes….and has a much better look and enduring life span.
#2 ASTM* Tested – twice the strength of concrete.
#3 Stays Cool Underfoot unlike man-made products or slate.
#4 Great for all exterior (pools, patios, driveways) and interior spaces (kitchens, bathrooms, counter tops, basements). Copings, treads, wall caps all readily available in various thicknesses.
#5 ASTM* Tested – high co-efficient of friction for a non-slip surface.
#6 No Maintenance – no need to seal or coat (especially, if dry-set pavers).
#7 ASTM Tested for freeze/thaw compatibility in northern climates.
#8 Retains its natural beauty forever! (they are over 50 million years old).
#9 Does not scuff or degrade like patterned concrete or stamped asphalt surfaces (asphalt and concrete get very hot).
#10 Fashion forward look with timeless beauty.
Why do we say Limestone is ‘superior’ to Bluestone? Compare the attributes….
1) Limestone has NO METAL (practically speaking), unlike traditional Bluestone from upstate PA/NY that is very laden with natural metal content….
1a) that means it STAYS COOL EVEN IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. That’s right, since it has no mechanism (metal) to draw the heat into the body of the stone it is THERMALLY INERT! It’s a thermal insulator, rather than a thermal conductor!
1b) it is chemically inert to chlorine and salt….. NO Chemical REACTION! Since LIMESTONE and Travertine Limestone are composed of Calcium Carbonate (chemically similar to a salt itself)…..it doesn’t react with salts or chlorine!
2) It is faster and easier to install than Bluestone….
2a) Gothicstone products are produced on marble tile production lines to exact specifications, thereby resulting in a extremely squared and calibrated end product (try comparing that to Bluestone, which is hacked up on very basic saws that[...]
Whenever rebar is used to reinforce concrete around a paving project (I emphasize a paving project because of the horizontal nature of the concrete usually means there will be water sitting on it for extended periods of time) the use of COATED rebar is imperative. The iron in the rebar will eventually oxidize (rust) and expand in the process. The more it oxidizes, the more it expands. The more it expands the more water it can collect and therefore the more it oxidizes and so on and so forth. Eventually you will get a massive failure like this municipal project on the Malaga (Spain) Beach Promenade.
By the way, no sense in using coated rebar if you don’t also coat the ends yourself after cutting the pieces to the necessary length for your install.
For those that may be interested contact me for information regarding a new generation of lightweight rebar that is a[...]