With a history in building and value engineering, we can facilitate the requirement for large quantities of outdoor pavers in home remodeling and commercial projects. Also, a supplier for hundreds of projects over the past 25 years, we can offer expertise in the selection and application of natural stone tiles and pavers.
A Source for Outdoor Pavers, Countertops, and Tiles
Our staff is available to discuss any size custom project. Engineers will be able to answer questions about order amounts, value engineer considerations, and suggested installation considerations. We will also recommend grout, sealant, and preparation of surfaces.
Limestone, marble, or travertine outdoor pavers can be chosen to complement other building materials, home decor, and even the surrounding environment. Furthermore, construction applications such as driveways, outdoor kitchens, and/or retaining walls can be discussed with us for optimum design and value engineering.
Natural Stone is a top choice
Natural stone outdoor pavers are becoming a top choice in pool deck flooring for their quality look and easy care. Limestone, marble, or travertine pavers give any pool area an upscale appearance that will last for decades. Consider matching pool coping, wall caps, and stair treads for further visual continuity. About 12 different surface finishes are available in our product portfolio to enhance the textural or aesthetics of the project. Likewise, kitchen remodels are a primary design consideration for both indoor and outdoor cooking and entertainment. Each area can incorporate floor tile or pavers, countertops, and a fireplace facing the same material. Limestone and travertine are tested for outdoor use up to zero degrees Fahrenheit without chipping or cracking. Gothicstone produces natural stone to your specification for optimum design and value engineering. We offer more than 300 choices of building products.
10 Reasons why select Natural Stone Travertine, Limestone, or Marble Pavers vs Concrete Pavers.
#1 REAL natural stone travertine pavers are less expensive than faux-stone concrete look-alikes….and have a much better look and enduring life span. #2 ASTM* Tested – twice the strength of concrete. #3 Stays Cool Underfoot unlike man-made products or slate. #4 Great for all exterior (pools, patios, driveways) and interior spaces (kitchens, bathrooms, countertops, basements). Copings, treads, and wall caps are all readily available in various thicknesses. #5 ASTM* Tested – high co-efficient of friction for a non-slip surface. #6 No Maintenance – no need to seal or coat (especially, if dry-set pavers). #7 ASTM Tested for freeze/thaw compatibility in northern climates. #8 Retains its natural beauty forever! (They are over 50 million years old). #9 Does not scuff or degrade like patterned concrete or stamped asphalt surfaces (asphalt and concrete get extremely hot). #10 Fashion-forward look with timeless beauty.
LIMESTONE Pavers
Limestone is the youngest of all these natural stones, a sedimentary stone usually found in ocean beds. Typically, limestone is homogeneous in color and most of the buildings around the world (ie: The Parthenon, Empire State Building, Lincoln Memorial, Pyramids, The Great Sphinx) have been built with sedimentary limestone. It is the most common building material in the world. It is a great choice for a more contemporary or modern design. It has 5000+ compressive strength and is great for all applications, including driveways.
TRAVERTINE Pavers
Travertine is a type of “morphed” limestone, but it is created from Artesian wells which means lime has been deposited by water, which is why Travertine has such a varied movement in the stone. It is about 50 million years old. Travertine makes an excellent natural stone material choice for any indoor or outdoor area because it never gets hot (no metal content in the stone), it is twice the strength of concrete, and is non-slippery. Travertine (and limestone) are durable for any application both commercially and residential.
MARBLE Pavers
Marble, on the other hand, is about 100 million years old and is perfect for the same applications as travertine and limestone. Since marble is an older natural stone material, it typically will be “veinier” and less “wild” than the travertines. Like all stones, marble is used for interior flooring, wall veneer, pool decks, patios, driveways, and wall cladding in both commercial and residential applications.
Driveway stone pavers add incremental lifetime value to residential and commercial properties–before you even enter the building. First, using driveway stone pavers improves the sale price of the property. Second, owners or property tenants can enjoy this upgrade for years. The obvious value of its “curb appeal” is priceless at the first impression, initial sale, and any sale thereafter. That curb appeal sets the expectation for a special property as prospective buyers arrive to tour the property. Residents and commercial owners appreciate a natural stone driveway feature every single day, whenever they use the drive or look out their windows. And, remarkably, driveway stone pavers prove to pay for themselves when it comes time to re-sell the property.
The days of limiting driveway systems to “blacktop” (macadam) or concrete are in the rearview mirror! Driveway stone pavers complement many architectural styles. But, even more, driveway stone pavers provide the necessary compressive and flexural strength. With natural stone, the driveway systems can be uniquely attractive as well as functional. You no longer need to choose form over function (or vice versa) when you can have both!
Right now, we’re seeing a shift to natural stone for both residential and commercial driveway systems. It’s time to replace the dated and oft-stained concrete surface. Natural stone comes in all formats—traditional, small 4” x 4” and 6” x 6” cubes to larger sizes. The pavers continue gaining traction with architects and builders focused on their aesthetic and structural benefits. These driveway stone pavers provide a desirable and broad alternative to standard and dated concrete pavers.
Let’s explore the technical factors architects and builders should consider when selecting natural stone for driveway applications.
Driveway Stone Pavers Deliver Strength, Durability, and Visual Impact
Several stressors negatively impact all driveway systems. The combination of these three major durability stressors influences the lifespan of the driveway installations:
The vehicle ‘load stress’ on a driveway system (flexural strength)
Environmental factors such as freezing and thawing
Driveway installation methodologies and technologies
Now, with driveway stone pavers, architects and builders can work around these concerns. Start by selecting the appropriate stone with these stressor considerations in mind. Then choose the aesthetic for your natural stone application.
Road builders have selected porphyry and granite cubes as the typical natural stone materials used to endure vehicle traffic for thousands of years. The common cube size of 4”x4”x4” provides the necessary strength and the flexibility to create many designs and patterns. Larger formats produce even different visuals. But the size of the stone dictates the installation methodology. See our blog,DRIVEWAY INSTALLATION: BEST PRODUCTS (AND TECHNOLOGIES) FOR LIFETIME VALUE
Today, varied selections of stone, patterns, and formats create functional driveway systems for businesses or residences, delivering that “wow factor” and adding value to the property.
Start with Flexural Strength
The compressive strength of most stones more than satisfies this application, so flexural strength becomes the core consideration. The thickness of the stone increases the flexural strength, while compressive strength remains static.
If the stone surface exceeds 6 inches in any one direction, then a strong (high ‘flexural strength’) material is optimal, particularly when considering a ‘dry set’ application. Avoid stones prone to having natural fissures or clefting, in some instances. For example, most types of marble and travertine are extremely durable and very appropriate for this type of application. Yet, seismic activity negatively impacted some individual quarries thousands or even millions of years ago, resulting in fissures in the stone. This may cause premature failure later. Be sure to purchase your stone from a reputable supplier with a history of working directly with the source quarries.
Regarding ‘compressive strength’ (an important consideration for both ‘dry set’ and ‘wet set’ applications), most stones on the market are at a minimum of 2,500–3,000 psi ‘compressive strength’, so it’s typically not much of a concern. Check with the distributor of the stone to be sure you choose an appropriate material for your specific application and environmental conditions.
Work with the Environment
When selecting driveway stone, it’s important to consider these environmental factors.
Local temperatures & seasonality – extreme cold and/or heat plus heavy rains and flooding should influence your choices. For example, some stones are not considered frost-proof, such as coral stone and other exceptionally soft stones.
The propensity for staining (foliage, oil deposits, and tire track staining) – some stones may be too porous or light in color for driveways. However, with the proper impregnating sealer, this problem can be mitigated.
Co-efficient of friction – Always select a non-slip finish for the surface treatment/surface finish. We recommend bush hammer/chisel face surface finish as best overall for driveways. See all our surface finishes and select the best option for your application.
Identify the Driveway Installation Methodologies & Technologies
Environmental considerations such as code limitations regarding pervious/impervious surfaces (crucial consideration), slope/drainage and soil type, and flexural strength/size of stone dictate driveway stone installation methods.
Typically, you have two basic choices for natural stone driveway installations, either ‘dry set’ or wet set. Gothicstone recommends that a Cellular Confinement System (CCS) be utilized in the installation of the subbase for optimum longevity and lifetime value. When considering methods of installation, there are aesthetic differences between ‘wet set’ and ‘dry set’; most notably, the need for expansion joints when installing on a concrete slab. Expansion joints can detract from the natural beauty of the driveway stone.
The critical distinction between the two common methods:
‘Wet set’ dictates the pavers being cemented to a concrete base.
‘Dry set’ allows the pavers to ‘float’ on top of a compacted aggregate base.
Dry-Set Installation
Dry-set avoids the failure/cracking attributed to freeze-thaw heaving in cold climates, and expansion and contraction in hot or cold climates and combinations thereof. An environmentally sustainable alternative, this installation allows water to pass through it or “percolate.” This has become a hot-button issue for most municipalities and zoning regulators regarding water runoff.
While we recommend CCS systems for all patios, driveways, pool decks, or any installation that utilizes gravel in the subbase, driveway projects particularly benefit from CCS because of the uneven distribution of vehicle tire track load.
Wet-set installation is an option, but not the best option in climates with heavy freeze-thaw cycling. Often, failure, in the form of cracking, can occur in the concrete base. Invariable these cracks transfer through to the surface material causing an unsightly appearance resulting in costly repairs. Conversely, cracks in the slab can be mitigated by the implementation of appropriate separation membranes such as Schluter®-DITRA & DITRA-XL. So, if you’re in a freeze-dry environment, skip the ‘wet set’ method, and look at the ‘dry set’ (floating paver system).
Natural stone paver driveways are a thing of beauty, a real estate highlight, and a feat of engineering. They increase property values, up the curb appeal, and boost resale prices. So, what’s the best way to protect that investment and maintain its physical appeal? Let’s start at the basics, which means ensuring the natural stone driveway installation is done correctly.
There are two options for natural stone paver driveway installation.
‘Dry set’
‘Wet set’
And, at Gothicstone, we suggest all ‘dry set’ and ‘wet set’ installations include a cellular confinement system (CCS) underneath for maximum longevity and lifetime value.
Insider notes: ‘wet set’ driveway installation with natural stone pavers
An issue with ‘wet set’ (poured concrete slab substrate) particularly in climates that have a lot of freeze-thaw cycling, is that concrete slabs are used as the sub-base/substrate and often will crack. It’s often not a question of “if” the underlying concrete slab will crack, it’s “when” it will crack. And a cracked concrete slab will commonly transfer the crack(s) to the adhered surface stone or any material on top, such as concrete pavers, for that matter. The reality is very few contractors are willing to put the effort into making a slab that won’t crack because it takes extra work and expense. Utilizing rebar, a geo cellular confinement system, and a ‘separation membrane’ (such as Schluter®-DITRA & DITRA-XL) will mitigate the possibility of failure, as described below.
Geo Cellular Confinement System (CCS) to the rescue: Why implement in a ‘wet set’ driveway application?
Some people think the cellular confinement system isn’t needed under a large concrete slab. But we disagree. The fact is the minimal extra expense will all but guarantee that you will never have slab cracking. Water is going to get underneath the concrete slab and during freezing, it will expand. The cellular confinement system holds everything in place minimizing movement resulting from freezing and thawing environments.
Cell-Tek Geo Cellular Confinement System (CCS)Rutgard Roadway 4 Geo Cellular Confinement System
Steps to installing a ‘wet set’ long-lasting driveway with a cellular confinement system:
To recap, if you want your installation to last a long time, follow these 9 steps:
Excavation with appropriate drainage considerations to mitigate water pooling underneath.
Installation of geotextile to prevent gravel from sinking into the soil below it.
Installation of the cellular confinement system following manufacturer’s best practices.
Fill the confinement system utilizing only clean (washed and graded) gravel. We strongly advise against using ‘modified/unwashed’ gravel mix.
Installation of a top layer of geotextile on top of the gravel.
Installation of rebar grid on the top of the gravel (preferably epoxy coated or ‘high-tech steel alternative’ composite rebar to avoid the risk of rust-causing future failure).
Pour a fiber-reinforced concrete slab. It is imperative to follow the local code regarding the implementation of expansion joints.
To ensure longevity, an extra step we recommend is to install a separation membrane such as Schluter®-DITRA & DITRA-XL on top of the concrete slab to mitigate cracks transferring through to the surface stone.
Professionally install the appropriate natural stone including grout lines (and expansion joints where necessary) to enable expansion and contraction. This is imperative in extreme weather conditions. In a perfect world, ½” thin natural stone can be used when all the above steps are adhered to with precision. Otherwise, we would recommend the 1 ¼” standard thickness for exterior applications.
In conclusion, there are redundancies in the above best practices instructions. There is almost zero chance of failure if all these steps are completed, and the resulting driveway should last a lifetime.
Insider notes: ‘dry set’ driveway installation with natural stone pavers
‘Dry set’ installation is the ideal method for driveway stone pavers. It avoids excessive movement of the stone due to heaving in colder climates. Also, stress from an expansion of the stone in hot climates. These unwanted issues are inherent in poured concrete slab systems. ‘Dry set’ installation is an environmentally sustainable alternative that allows water to pass through it rather than create problematic water runoff.
For the safest approach, it’s best to select natural stone pavers of smaller sizes. When working with smaller pieces, such as 4”x4”, 4”x6”, or even 6”x6” cobblestones, use a ‘dry set’ application. But if your customer wants something different than the classic cobblestone 4”x4” granite, limestone, or porphyry block, the key is to consider the flexural stress on the stone. If the stone surface is longer than 6 inches in any one direction, then a strong (high ‘flexural strength’) material is optimal, particularly when considering a ‘dry set’ application. Avoid natural stones prone to having natural fissures or clefting.
Large format natural stone pavers in a driveway installation
Large format pavers can be successfully installed if the installation is done properly. You can install 12”x12”x1¼”, 16”x16”x1¼”, 8”x16”x1¼” or larger if it is installed correctly. But that’s a BIG “if”. Many contractors/masons rely too heavily on laborers to do the installations, emphasizing speed over quality. This isn’t a good idea. A small void or a “pea under the mattress” can cause failure.
Geo Cellular Confinement System (CCS) to the rescue
To mitigate shifting and cracking, install a cellular confinement system. Gothicstone recommends a cellular confinement system (CCS) under any base. With driveways, it’s almost imperative due to tire track “rutting” to use a CCS. For example, if you have a sand or dirt driveway, ruts inevitably occur over time. But it also happens with blacktop driveways or any driveway where you have constant stress and load on two narrow tire tracks. The vehicle load will compress the ‘track’ area, whereas a CCS can keep the substrate from spreading out. This method prevents stress on the tracks from making ruts in your installation, and thus pieces from failing. Because when the ruts happen, there’s uneven compression on the pieces. It’s the unevenness of the load where problems like this occur.
Small 4”x4”x4” cubes/pavers typically won’t break, which is why people typically use this size of material, but they will be susceptible to rutting and shifting. Often people want to use a larger format driveway stone. If so, a ‘dry set’ and a cellular confinement system are the approaches to use.
Ruts and cracks can be avoided
The larger pieces will help in that they won’t rut as readily, however, they may crack. Whereas small driveway stone pieces will allow the material to “sink down” into the ruts without breaking. But they’ll allow the ruts to occur more easily. Plus, more water is washing in between the joint areas because you have more joint areas.
If you have a 4”x4” compared to a 16”x16”, you’re going to have about 1000% more joint area with a 4”x4” installation. That’s an incredibly exponential amount of joint area because in a 16”x16” area, you will have 16 pieces of 4”x4” material (4 in one direction and 4 in the other direction) and then all those joint lines in between where the water will be entering and then allowing for either washout or heaving underneath it.
So, the smaller driveway stone pavers do allow for more movement to happen but, eventually, they may cause ruts unless you use a cellular confinement system to keep everything underneath in place.
Keep in mind that vehicular weight will be on the pathway of the vehicle tires; that is where the bulk of the load or stress will go.
Steps to installing a ‘dry set’ long-lasting driveway with a cellular confinement system:
To recap, if you want your installation to last a long time, follow these 8 steps:
Installation of geotextile to prevent gravel from sinking into the soil below it.
Installation of the cellular confinement system following manufacturer’s best practices.
Fill the confinement system utilizing only clean (washed and graded) gravel. We strongly advise against using ‘modified/unwashed’ gravel mix.
Follow local code requirements regarding the height/quantity of crushed stone/gravel required in your geographic area.
It’s considered best practice to compact every two inches of height when applying the gravel.
Installation of a top layer of geotextile on top of the gravel.
Installation and compaction of screenings/’fines’ (concrete dust, sand, or small/fine gravel)
Professionally install and compact the appropriate natural stone pavers. Where small grout lines are open between the pavers, sand or polymeric sand can be swept between the joints.
To retain the beauty of the stone, you should use an impregnating stone sealer using a color enhancing impregnating stone sealer, so it keeps the stone looking new. If you want the stone to age naturally, you don’t have to use any stone sealer at all. In any case, sealing in a ‘dry set’ application is not necessary. Never use a ‘topical’ stone sealer (non-impregnating).
5 design approaches using natural stone pavers:
Creating a “deco” look. Use smaller pieces that can manage the load in the heavy traffic areas and install the larger stone along the sides.
Placing smaller format material at apron entrances of driveways. The entrance apron, where vehicles turn in off the main road, typically takes an enormous impact as they swing into the driveway. In most of the United States, when you approach a driveway, there will be a bit of a bump or a swale causing impact. So, on the apron entrance, from the road to the driveway, consider using a smaller format stone. The smaller format driveway stone mitigates the impact of flexural stress, while at the same time smoothing the sloping transition to the street.
Mixing and matching alternating sizes to provide attractive applications. Smaller driveway stone pieces on the apron can be cut from the same blocks of stone as the rest of the project applications. Whether it’s a long driveway, walkway, or pathway leading up to a patio or pool, for example, the entire project stone can match no matter the size or thickness of the material.
Picking the appropriate material if you select larger format driveway stone pieces. Gothicstone™ SEAHAZEtm limestone is extremely strong, has high compressive strength, and high flexural strength.
Choosing 4”x4”x4” cubes is not necessary. It’s not necessary to go that thick, however, with carbon footprint, shipping costs, and other green initiatives being an increasingly important consideration, a 4”-thick paver is going to double the shipping cost of a 2”- thick paver. From both a cost-effective value engineering perspective and a carbon footprint perspective, a 2”-thick piece gives you a better value and is good for the earth!
Have questions on cellular confinement systems and selecting/specifying natural stone for driveway systems? Contact us.
Other resources that may be helpful in planning your driveway installation:
In today’s landscape and interior design concepts, natural stone can be used to create an antique, traditional or old-world look. It’s, also, an excellent choice for contemporary/modern or a mid-century look. Think patios, swimming pool decks, terraces, pool houses, and any interior living spaces. Explore natural stone design ideas for tile, pavers, veneer & cladding, and living spaces for your projects. Unlike concrete or porcelain, design flexibility is effortless because every stone piece part can be fabricated easily.
Extra-Large Formats, Fresh Colors, Exciting New Finishes
Design for any space with extra-large pavers and tile sizes from 24″x24″, 18”x36” and up to 48″x48″ plus custom sizes in rectangles and squares. For a seamless, large format design, tile or pavers can be “butt installed”. We produce step treads, countertops, wall caps, and wall systems plus driveway cobblestones and driveway paver systems to complement the project.
SEAHAZE SEA 24″x48″ Limestone TileCream Travertine Tile, Mosaics, and VeneerPool Deck Pavers & Coping SEAHAZE SEA Limestone Caramel Travertine Radius Wall Caps and Pool Coping, Step Treads, and PaversBathroom SEAHAZE SAND & SEAHAZE SEA Tile, Mosaics
With different (and new) texture finishes, you can create diverse looks from an old-world to modern/contemporary look. Our collections include honed, brushed, Suregrip Moleskin, Etruscan, bush hammer, and micro bush hammer. Other exciting finishes—saw cut, split face finishes and even a hand-chiseled, antiqued finish for that “old-world motif” impact—are available.
SEAHAZE SAND 6″x6″ tile hand-chiseled, antiqued finish for an old-world motif
SEAHAZE SEA 24″x48″ honed tile provides a modern/contemporary look. It’s a great choice for extremely durable flooring in residential and commercial applications.
SEAHAZE SEA 24″x48″ honed tile provides a modern/contemporary look (butt installed) and is extremely durable flooring.
Gothicstone produces in various thicknesses and sizes for interior or exterior considerations such as tile, pavers, coping, treads, wall cladding/veneer, driveway/car park systems, and pedestrian walkways. Architectural accent pieces can be custom-fabricated such as fountains, park benches, and outdoor kitchens/bars.
Add Texture vs. Changing Stone Color
We’re seeing textures shift from rustic tumbled, rounded edges to clean lines, square edges on tiles, pavers, and coping. Tone-on-tone texturing can beautifully enhance the aesthetic of your flooring design. Adding an intriguing trim or pattern through the addition of various surface finishes can achieve the added interest desired. New finishes, such as micro bush hammer, Suregrip Moleskin, and Etruscan Texture, add subtle interest without changing the material.
Though we often think of concrete driveway systems, paved natural stone driveways have been around just as long and longer! Natural stone driveway pavers provide the necessary flexural strength and an artistic element. Driveway pavers can be a unique and functional feature enhancing the overall property, rather than presenting simply as a flat beige or black surface, best ignored.
These days, a shift to large-format natural stone pavers for both residential and commercial driveway systems is gaining popularity and replacing that concrete surface. Natural stone driveway pavers in all formats–large and traditional (small 4”x4”, 6”x6” cubes)–with their aesthetic and structural benefits make them a strong alternative to concrete pavers. Interested in learning more? Considerations for Specifying Natural Stone in Driveway Paving Applications.
Design with Natural Stone Veneer and Cladding
Natural stone veneer and cladding provide an excellent architectural tool for interior as well as exterior walls. Natural stone has always been a much-loved building material because of its strength, durability, great look and minimal maintenance cost. However, constructing a stone building is certainly not cost-effective. This is where the value of natural stone cladding or veneer comes in. It provides the functionality, advantages and look of stone, and at the same time is cost-effective and easy to install.
Before you go for that faux stone panel, remember that they are likely to fade and get chipped over time whereas veneer in natural stone will look great for generations to come! With a textural change in the stone for veneer and/or cladding, such as split face, hand-chisel, or bush hammer, you can add the distinction of an accent look without changing the color of the stone used in the project. When building a wall out of solid block stone, the face finish options are hand chisel and split face. Veneers and cladding product sizes range from 6” x free length and up to 20” x 40” (with bush hammer on back for stickier installation).
Cream Travertine mini split face veneer – claddingSeahaze Sand Limestone small chipped wall veneerSEAHAZE SEA Limestone jumbo wall cladding
A perfect, “save the day” application would be an old, ugly concrete patio, which is degraded somewhat, some cracking here and there but basically in decent shape. You can make it new again by laying a paver pedestal system over the concrete and placing your pavers or tiles on top. With a crew of three or four good laborers, you could probably install several thousand square feet in one day. A pedestal paver system works well (and very cost-effectively) if you use large format tile or paver sizes such as 12”x12”, 16”x16” or up to and, including 24”x24”.
Caution: you must use the correct material/product because it must be strong (appropriate flexural strength). Otherwise, the corners may break since there is no support in the center of the paver or tile. Read PEDESTAL SYSTEMS EXPAND THEIR FOOTPRINT IN BOTH INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR PROJECTS to learn further stone implementation information about paver pedestal systems.
Paver pedestal system materials are 3cm (1 1/4″) thick, (exceptions noted below):
Marbles (for the most part), up to 24×24
SEAHAZE SEA limestone, up to 24×24 or 30×30
SEAHAZE SAND limestone, up to 24×24 or 30×30
Can use up to 18x18x2cm (3/4″) limestone, travertine, or marble
Cross cut travertine (not vein cut) travertine up to 24 x 24
NATURAL STONE DISCLAIMER: Buyer acknowledges that stone is a natural substance, formed within the earth and that distinct types of stone, as well as individual stones within any given type, may vary in texture, color, thickness, density, durability, or fitness for a particular use or purpose. Natural stone may chip, peel, flake, bleed, stain, oxidize, or otherwise deteriorate over time. These attributes should be considered when using stone, especially in any exterior application subject to moisture. Buyer acknowledges that Seller has no control over Buyer’s selection or use of any stone and that exposure to weather, installation techniques, or preservative measures used by Buyer.
Buyer’s purchase of stone from Seller constitutes Buyer’s acknowledgment of the above, and acceptance of the risks inherent in the use and installation of natural stone and a waiver of all claims which Buyer may have against Seller arising from the chipping, etching, flaking, staining, bleeding, oxidation, or other deteriorations and/or defects inherent in natural stone.
Gothicstone SEAHAZE SEAtm is a Bluestone quarried in the Atlas Mountains of northern Morocco. Several other countries quarry Bluestone, like Belgium, Germany, France, Vietnam, China, and the USA. The notable differentiation between the Pennsylvania Bluestone vs Moroccan Bluestone is that our SEAHAZE SEAtm Bluestone is characterized as a limestone whereas the PA/NY Bluestone is characterized as a sandstone. Limestones typically stay cooler than sandstones.
8 Reasons to choose Gothicstone SEAHAZE SEAtm Limestone for your Bluestone pavers.
PA and NY Bluestones are quarried from sandstone deposits. And commonly suffer from chipping, delamination, and flaking due to the way the deposit is formed in striated sedimentary layers. The striations (layers) do not commonly occur in limestone deposits. For this reason, the SEAHAZE SEAtmlimestone is easier to work with and will retain its natural beauty without the delamination issues that can be quite common with the PA and NY Bluestones.
Due to many of the advantageous technical characteristics of limestone plus a more exacting manufacturing process, SEAHAZE SEAtm Limestone is often less expensive to implement compared to Bluestone originating from PA and NY.
SEAHAZE SEAtmLimestone pavers are greater than 5,000 PSI compressive strength. They can be used in most industrial applications.
Gothicstone produces extra-large format pavers which are available according to your specifications. Example sizes are 18×36, 30×30, 24×48, 48×48, and varying thicknesses according to your project needs (2cm/3cm/4cm/5cm/6cm/7cm, etc.).
SEAHAZE SEAtm cuts beautifully and is processed with more precision and accuracy than the typical PA and NY Bluestone processing plants can produce. The resulting aesthetic is the ability to “butt install” the pavers or tile without extra-large grout joints.
Limestones typically stay cooler than sandstones which is obviously an additional benefit to using SEAHAZE SEAtm Bluestone over the PA/NY option for copings, pool deck or any outdoor hardscape areas.
SEAHAZE SEAtm products available for your patio, pool deck, driveway and general building projects are pavers, slabs for countertops and wall caps, step treads, block treads, coping, cladding, tile and driveway pavers or cobblestones.
Finishes varieties: Suregrip Moleskintm – a mechanically sandblasted surface; Etruscan Finishtm – bush hammered with a mechanically sandblasted secondary finish applied; Tumbled; Honed; Bush Hammer – mimics the ancient art of point chiseling/texturing the surface of the stone. A great combination of textural visual aesthetic and tactile interest without being too aggressive, and yet it significantly raises the co-efficient of friction (for those who have that concern); Micro Bush Hammer – a finer more delicate version of the above.
SEAHAZE SEA Pool Projects
Contact us for your free project value engineering consult.
Mold on pavers is a persistent problem that can be corrected!
Paver hardscaping can be relatively maintenance-free. However, issues may arise if your patio or pool deck is not properly maintained, or the initial installation isn’t correct. “Battling Mother Nature” addresses how to avoid having a persistent mold on pavers problem on any type of hardscape installation, whether it is natural stone or concrete pavers!
The problem is often thought to be not enough sunlight in that area (particularly in the case of mold and mildew). Of course, it may help to have plenty of sunlight to mitigate the mold growth on the hardscaping. However, the problem is not on the surface. It lies underneath. The problem is almost always about the substrate in paver, tile, and other types of exterior or interior environments. The unfortunate appearance of mold and/or algae can readily be avoided with proper installation vs the age-old excuse of insufficient sunlight or other natural causes.
The Mold on Paver Problem and Solution
So, how is it that two adjoining properties, with similar environmental circumstances and conditions, yield two different outcomes: one has a serious mold and/or algae paver problem while the other property has no issues whatsoever?
Poor water drainage equals mold
The mold on pavers problem occurs when algae and/or mold and other fungal types grow on damp or moisture-laden pavers. The answer is to eliminate the presence of moisture from underneath. Without moisture, the algae/mold cannot survive. The key is a proper installation with the substrate being the most vital component.
Installation and drainage are at the heart of the mold on pavers problem
People that do have these ongoing nightmarish issues are having these problems because the preparation, before the installation of the pavers, was not done properly. Yes, maybe they installed 12 – 18” of gravel underneath, and they did an inch of sand on top of the gravel, and they used geotextile (which hardly anyone uses) and all that is well and good. However, Mrs. Smith has that problem, and Mrs. Jones, next door, doesn’t.
One reason could be the pooling of the water. Another contributing factor can be the use of “modified” gravel, which inhibits the ease of movement for water to drain properly, instead of clean/screened gravel. Water will always seek out the lowest point. It rains and physics says that gravity will pull the water to the lowest point. When there isn’t a place for water to escape, it ends up sitting underneath the installation, like a pond or, in the case of a pool deck, like a moat circling the pool and the water has no place to go. So, what happens? The water just sits there and feeds these microorganisms that end up being mold growths and discoloration on your beautiful pavers. Look familiar?
Escape Route for water is necessary to combat the mold on pavers problem
Be sure to properly integrate an escape route for the water particularly if the excavation work has created an undesirable pooling or “pond effect” below the surface. Dry-set hardscaping projects always involve excavation and a new sub-base of compacted gravel (hopefully clean/washed gravel).
A proper French drain, when your patio or pool deck is installed, is the most desirable solution. It’s all good to have the gravel and the sand but the water needs to have a place to go. When digging that moat around the pool, or excavating underneath the proposed patio, be sure the water that goes down to that gravel is routed away. If it doesn’t have someplace to go, you will, likely, have this type of moisture problem.
Some types of soil “percolate” so well that the water will just drain. Poor percolation is an intrinsic problem in clay soils, however. Soils that percolate better, unlike clay soils, let the water escape through the soil. And that is quite common…however, it is best not to risk it. You want to make sure that the water has someplace to go whether you have clay soil or not. When there is a strong grade on the property, water will likely find its way downhill. And, if your deck or patio is built up above the grade, then water, typically, will seep out and go downhill somewhere. No matter the situation, you want to have a built-in exit route for the water, even if it is at only one point.
Unfortunately, for many people who are reading this, you might be past the installation phase without the proper drainage pipes. Sure, you can power-wash over and over but that is just treating the symptoms and not treating the cause. So, what do you do?
Here’s what to do.
Pull up as many pavers as you need to find the lowest spot, in the original excavation, and utilize some method to help the water escape.
Replace some of the gravel and underneath that gravel bed, place PVC pipes, to allow that water to escape the pool deck or patio area and to drain out to a lower point.
Go to the lowest point of your excavation and that’s where the water will be accumulating.
Use one inch PVC pipe with holes drilled throughout (of course the bigger the pipe the better, but this does less collateral damage, particularly in a retrofit situation) and run it to either a water collection area where you may have a sump pump or let it percolate through your yard.
Point of Interest: “Modified” vs Clean/Screened Gravel
Gothicstone recommends using clean, screened gravel. Unfortunately, most contractors use “modified” gravel/aggregate, and it is not clean or screened. “Modified” gravel/aggregate compacts well and makes the compaction fast and easy. We believe the gravel industry pushes it extremely hard because it is quite easy for them to produce; less than half the work for them to do; most of the work in making gravel is grading (sizing) and cleaning it. The gravel quarry industry loves selling “modified” because it’s less work for them, less wastage, and therefore, more profitable. Clean or screened gravel, on the other hand, is more labor-intensive to compact because it locks into place – the different facets or faces of the gravel pieces lock into each other and it is more difficult to compact. The specifications for doing commercial projects (and most paver or concrete installations) specify to use washed, screened, or cleaned gravel (not modified) in conjunction with geotextile and stabilization systems. Want to learn more about stabilization systems and recommended use? Read our blog, Gothicstone recommends stabilization grids regardless of the scale of your paver installation project.
Cleaning Tips for pool decks or patios
Hardwood decks/patios, as well as wood on houses/buildings, need to be cleaned and sealed regularly. Although you power wash and seal a hardwood deck every year, natural stone deck maintenance is much less frequent. We recommend casual cleaning and sealing, with the proper sealers, at least every several years depending on what sealer product you use. It’s important to note that you should not use a prophylactic coating type of sealer like you would on wood products. That type of sealer puts a coating on the wood and people often use that kind of sealer for concrete pavers, as well, with bad results. With natural stone, you should never use a prophylactic coating type of sealer because the stone wants to breathe. And that is a good thing. Use a “breathable” sealer that tends to last many years longer. When using a high-quality sealer, you will only have to seal every 5-10 years. We recommend Stain Proof.
How to get the stone to visually “pop” again like it was new
We would like to recommend that every couple of years, you do a mild muriatic acid wash on the stone. You must be careful, but it is not as scary as you may think.
Here’s how:
Saturate the surface of the stone, where you are working, with water.
Use a 10-20% dilution of muriatic acid that you would purchase from your pool supply store or hardware store (it is already diluted when you purchase the container).
Take the diluted jug and dilute it again to 5-1 (5 parts water, 1-part of the purchased diluted muriatic acid).
Wash your deck/patio stone with the twice diluted muriatic acid (you can use a mop or bug sprayer).
Sweep with a broom, then rinse it off with a heavy water flush.
Note: The acid should not be strong enough to do any damage to the ecology or be harmful to your flower beds next to the stone patio because once it contacts the stone, there is a little bit of sizzle, a bit of chemical reaction that happens and then it should be neutralized.
Are you looking for different exterior stone options? Gothicstone is here to help. Contact us today to find out more about our products so we can value-engineer your stone solution. We look forward to providing you with natural stone materials to help make your client’s outdoor area an exclusive living space.
Yes, even for residential pool decks or patio pavers!
Largely unrecognized throughout the construction industry in paver installation is the need for stabilization grids. These grids are also called cellular confinement systems (CCS), load support grids, or geocells. I would say that the large-scale industrial masonry world understands because they have heavy-duty architects working on road projects, those that require forethought, and longevity. On small to mid-size projects ie: parking lots to driveways, backyard patios, or pool deck paver projects, it typically is not a consideration to use stabilization grids.
Stabilization equals Longevity of Paver Installations
Stabilization is at the heart of the project when it comes down to the longevity of the installation. Anybody can lay down some stone or pavers on soil or grass and they’ll stay there for a week, a month, or a year. If you want pavers to stay in place for 10, 20, or 50 years, you need to have a stable substrate. As with interior tile projects and exterior paver projects, it’s all about the substrate. Without the proper substrate, nothing else matters because you will have failure – 100% guaranteed.
Courtesy CellTek
Recommended Use of Stabilization Grids
So, without the soil stabilization under a paver installation, you’re extremely likely, in almost every scenario, to have some movement. There are some very stable environmental situations that may not necessitate it. Climates that don’t have much temperature change, climates that don’t have a lot of rain, and have very compact sandy soil, are where you will not get a lot of movement underneath. As you know, that is a small portion of the world we live in that has that kind of climate.
So, conversely, if you have a lot of rain, if you have a lot of temperature change, particularly if you have a lot of cycling in freeze/thaw, and that’s the real killer, you’re going to have movement in your substrate. When you have movement in your substrate, you are going to have movement above your substrate because the substrate is what is holding your stone or pavers. For that reason, stabilization grids are recommended.
Travertine pavers with CCS in residential patio and walkway project. Concrete pavers and CCS for driveway project.
Paver Installation on Concrete Slab with Stabilization Grids
When you have a concrete slab, it’s the adage, it’s not IF your slab will crack or fail, it’s WHEN. Concrete slabs are extremely prone to failure because they are asked to perform very unforgiving and next-to-impossible tasks…to endure movement underneath them without cracking or failing. And, again, when you have movement underneath, you’re going to have the material on top crack and fail. Even the concrete itself is prone to failure without movement from underneath because of heat, especially in hot climates, and or cold or thermally cycling climates, where it gets cold then hot, cold then hot. The slabs will expand and contract according to the heat and cold they are exposed to and particularly, the cycling of heat & cold, heat & cold.
Small concrete slabs, for sidewalk sections 3’x3’ or 4’x4’ are not a big concern. Unfortunately, enough people do not put on expansion joints, they use control joints, which when it fails, fail along the control joint. A control joint is nothing more than a little line cut into the surface of the concrete making it a little bit weaker on that line so if it cracks, the crack goes along that line that was cut into it. So, it’s a prettier failure. The concrete slab is not the best solution.
If there are no elevation problems or choose to raise your elevation, it’s perfect to put a grid down on top of the existing concrete slab and put pavers on top of that.
Benefits of using STABILIZATION GRIDS
When there is failure such as washing out from too much rain underneath, and without a properly compacted substrate, you can have the substrate washing out. This happens from normal flooding, heavy floods, and the constant flow of water eventually eroding the substrate and gravel. A stabilization grid (or cellular confinement system) will hold the substrate in place so that it’s not possible to wash out. The gravel can’t travel through the walls of the grid, so it holds it all together and in place.
Use stabilization grids to combat the freeze-thaw danger
One of the bigger dangers is the freeze/thaw expansion and contraction issue that is extremely common in the climates of the upper forty-eight states in America and around the world. When you have snow and wintry weather, warm weather, then freezing weather, warm weather, and moisture-cycling, the moisture gets underneath the pavers and freezes. And, as we all know, when you look at ice cubes in your freezer, they all have a hump in them because when water freezes, it expands. So, you’re going to get the substrate holding water. If there is quick freezing overnight, the water will expand and therefore, your whole installation will heave up a little bit.
When it heaves down, when you use the grids, the grids will hold it in place instead of it shifting a little bit every time. When it shifts a little bit every time, from heaving then relaxing, heaving then relaxing, heaving then relaxing, you can imagine things will start to spread out over many cycles and next thing you know your pavers are 1/8” apart then ¼” apart, next thing you know, they have those openings and more water attacking it and now you have bigger gaps for the water to go in and turn to ice and more washout issues, etc. The whole thing kind of goes to hell without the use of a stabilization grid or cellular confinement system.
Are you looking for different exterior stone options? Gothicstone is here to help. Contact us today to find out more about our products so we can value-engineer your stone solution. We look forward to providing you with natural stone materials to help make your client’s outdoor area an exclusive living space.
